Here is some credit repair help – a checklist to help you dispute negative entries on your credit report. Print and save a copy to track your progress.

Access a free copy of your credit report from each of the three reporting agencies at www.annualcreditreport.com. You’ll need to supply 2 years of prior addresses and verify items that may or may not appear on your report to identify yourself. From that main website you’ll be directed to each of the reporting agencies individually. Be sure and keep track of all your logins and passwords. You have 30 days to log back in for free so print out copies you can write on.

Highlight any negative entries. Creditors don’t always report everything to every agency so look for differences on each report. If they remove a negative item the are required to notify the other agencies so they can remove it as well if they have it recorded.

Write a letter explaining why each of those negative items should not be on your report. Additionally, if you have an account that’s in good standing that’s not listed, you can have them add that. You’ll need verification and it might be easier to ask your creditor to report it directly.

In listing negative items to dispute, include account names, numbers, dates, etc. Write why you’re disputing it as well. Valid reasons are that it’s an account you never had, the dates or amounts are wrong, etc. If you don’t have a better reason, you can always say you don’t recall having that account. I’m not saying to dispute items you know are true because most creditors have staff dedicated to verifying accounts and that won’t get it off just because you listed it. Plus, lying can get you in trouble.

The items you must include are your full name with middle name and suffix, current and past mailing addresses for the past two years, social security number, and date of birth.

You must also include a copy of a government issued ID AND a copy of a utility bill, insurance or bank statement. Verification that’s NOT valid: credit card statements, voided checks, lease agreements, magazine subscriptions, or post office forwarding orders. These documents only will work. Otherwise the agencies will send you a letter saying you didn’t include enough information to identify yourself.

Send your letter USPS certified mail. If you don’t, you run the risk of them “losing” your letter and you having no way to verify you sent it.

You can track the letter on the USPS website to find out when it was delivered. They are required to investigate and verify within 30 days or they have to take the items off your report and let you know.

That’s it. You can now take steps to start building better credit.

Find out how to do your own credit repair without an agency. Visit www.creditrepairsecrets.org for free help.

Is there a point of no return in doing credit history repair?

The story is usually the same. People get credit cards when they’re young. They max them out. They borrow on one to pay the other. They get more cards until they can’t anymore. Finally the minimum payments overwhelm their income and they’re stuck.

Maybe you’ve been through that already. The good news is you still have options. The main credit history repair options are bankruptcy, debt settlement, debt consolidation, credit counseling or learning to manage your debt better.

The first concern many people have is how any particular option will affect your credit. The bigger issue is a overwhelming amount of debt. Massive debt ruins your credit AND your cash flow. Keeping negative marks off your credit doesn’t do much for you if you’re drowning in debt.

Bankruptcy is a best for people who don’t have many assets. That way when you have to liquidate your assets, there won’t be much there and most of it will be exempt anyway. That option hurts your credit the most but if you’re drowning in debt, that might be your best option. Consult with an attorney for that.

Debt settlement is a great option if you just want to get out of debt and don’t mind temporary bad credit. Instead of paying your monthly payments, you put all that money in a savings account and once your accounts charge off, you negotiate 20-40% settlements with the creditors. If you do this, be sure to get it in writing that the account is settled. Be sure and know the laws in your state because in some jurisdictions, creditors can garnish wages.

Debt consolidation is where you pay off all your loans with one big loan. Usually the only place to get a loan that big when you have too much debt is from your home equity. The danger is that people often spend on their paid off accounts again and end up with twice as much debt. Then their home is in jeopardy because now they have twice the payments to keep up with.

Please don’t even attempt credit counseling. If you follow the money, they’re working for the creditors. They get a cut if they set you up with a lower rate from a creditor. That’s why most of them don’t work with all creditors. You can lower your own interest rate if that’s all you need. And for that service, they’ll put a third party intervention mark on your credit which is not a good thing.

The best option is to manage your money better. Obviously if you’re already too far behind, you need to do something more than just pay down your debt. If you can pay down your debt, pay the highest rates first. Negotiate your rates down and make your creditors bid against each other for your business. Once you pay off one, apply that payment to another. Keep that up until you’re where you want to be.

While your current situation may look dismal, there are always options. Figure out what you really want to accomplish and get started.

Find out how to do your own credit repair without an agency. Visit www.creditrepairsecrets.org for free credit advice.

If you’ve been trying to figure out how to do consumer credit repair, there are five major C words to lenders. Those major areas are character, capacity, capital, collateral and conditions.

Character

Character refers to how well lenders can trust you. If they know you personally, that’s great. Oftentimes, this is determined by how well you’ve made payments on time.

Credit cards especially report 30, 60 and 90 day delinquencies to the credit reporting agencies. Each negative entry counts against your credit score. If it’s not already there, you’ll want your report to show all accounts in good standing to repair your consumer credit.

Capacity

Capacity is your cash flow. You have to have enough money to handle the debt you’re asking for. They look at your income and expenses for each month. Lenders rightfully want to make sure you have enough money to make the payments.

Capital

Capital is your net worth. Even if you’re making plenty of money each month, if you have way more debt than you have assets, you’re a bigger lending risk. Having more assets shows you’re worthy of more credit.

Collateral

Collateral is something to secure the debt. Typically, loans are secured by property such as real estate or vehicles. If there’s something to get back should you default on the loan, there’s less risk to the lender.

Conditions

The state of the the market and economy are the conditions. The rise and fall of interest rates and inflation are in this category. As the Federal Reserve tightens up credit to banks, consumers find it harder to qualify as well.

Smaller concerns such as your local banker’s mood that day also fall into this group. While we’d like to think your banker is always going to be professional, he’s human too.

Character, capacity, capital, collateral and conditions are the five areas to focus on when you’re looking to repair consumer credit.

Find out how to do your own credit history repair without an agency. Visit www.creditrepairsecrets.org for free credit repair secrets.